NEW BASE LINE by Bernd Zangerl

(english)

"Because of the bad weather, it’s getting more quiet in Magic Wood. Nevertheless, Hannes, Thomas and myself head for our favority playground – not without strong reasons.
Particular snow will come, what means no good conditions for a while. And there is this project, I solved two days ago......but only for some seconds. Felling the big jug under my fingers,I found myself on the ground.
Instead of euphoria and beeing happy....rage, disappointed and frustration – because of my own inability ????
I don’t know .....that was two days ago. Today the thermometer shows me zero degrees and snowflakes are dumbling through the magic wood, when i am sitting in front of my dream.
During one of his forays Thomas found this 35° degree overhanging wall. The first moves follow a crack which widens after three meters so that there are no more grips. Strenuous (shoulder) moves build the connection to the final passage rock face. From there crimpers lead to the final dyno. Combining these moves successfully, requires 11 maximum power moves. Although the first move seems to be the hardest one at first, the passage rockface reveals to be the real crux.
Despite only one restday, I am back. The last chance for a while, because the weatherforcast sounded really bad for the next weeks. Still a little bit tired, but thinking about this, I make the first move .....the next are following .......everything is in flux, the dyno to the big jug with my right hand......and with the left hand..........the tension goes away with a loud scream.
NEW BASE LINE ist finished.
But the way to the top was certainly hard and troublesome. Everything started last year, when I improved the landing zone with painstakingly work.
What I wasn’t able to do with adequate tools – small hammer against big granitblocks – I compensated with my musclepower. But this warm up was nearly everything I contributed to a sucessfull ascent last year. I was just able to to decipher some of the moves. I didn’t found the key for an sucessfull ascent. Living on in my dreamworld i came back to magic wood this spring and after aome days I stringed the first six moves together.
The fracture of my kneecap ineviably brought me back to reality. Spring was passing, summer made it’s arrival in Magic Wood. The mercury rose too high. As the temperatures dropped, I returned back. The success in VIVA LA EVOLUTION and knowing that Dave Graham is also back in Magic Wood , gave me additional motivation.
I made good progress, the movements worked more fluently every time.......and after some days of work........ I grabbed the last hold.........joy and euphoria came through."

NEW BASE LINE is in the same category as VIVA LA EVOLUTION difficulty wise. Not typical for Zangerl’s Boulderproblems so far, this new masterpiece is a more statical climb. There is no Dyno apart from the final one to the big jug.Once more the young tyrolian guy impressively proves that he is beyond the reach of most others concerning hard bouldering.

(deutsch)

Viele meiner Freunde haben mir prophezeit, dass ich nach meinem Erfolg in VIVA LA EVOLUTION mal eine Motivationspause machen müsse...
Aber irgendwie verfiel ich in eine solche Euphorie, dass mit einer Pause einfach nichts zu machen war. Zuviele "unkletterbare" Linien haben sich in meinem Gehirn festgesetzt - die mir immer wieder den Schlaf rauben.........
Mit meinen Freunden waren wir dann den restlichen Sommer hindurch in verschiedenen Gebieten unterwegs und zahlreiche Probleme mussten sich unserem ansturm "ergeben".
Als die Temperaturen langsam wieder sanken, besann ich mich auf ein projektl der kategorie "LONG-TIME-PROJECT" im Magic Wood. Ich hatte nur noch in Erinnerung, dass ich und dave G. nicht all zuviele Züge klettern konnten. Im letzen Frühjahr konnte ich zwar wenigstens die Einstiegszüge klettern, aber an einen Durchstieg war nicht zu denken – und somit fuhren wir ins Averstal, um uns Gewissheit zu holen.
Wahrscheinlich durch das das gute "training" in VIVA LA EVOLUTION, gingen die einzelne züge zwar "fließender", aber für einen durchstieg ??????
.........nach 11 weiteren Projekttagen ( + einige tage im letzten jahr) , konnte ich die 10 züge am 7.11 unter Aufsicht meines Freundes Steini und seiner Digitalkamera aneinanderreihen.
Bezüglich Schwierigkeit kann ich nur sagen, dass der boulder härter als Dreamtime einzustuffen ist. ( auch Dave, der einige Tage probiert hat, ist dieser Meinung)
Ob ich somit hinter meinen boulder eine zahl schreibe oder nicht, erübrigt sich somit. ( oder sonst machen es andere)
In unserer neuen Averstalbewertung haben wir somit unseren
ersten "SAUSCHWAREN" boulder.
Zumindest gibt es keinen einstündigen Fussmarsch, und jeder kann den boulder probieren.
Bewertung hin, Bewertung her .........der boulder ist einfach magic ;-)

(ach ja, heissen tut er NEW BASE LINE)

VIVA_LA_EVOLUTIO...	VIVA_LA_EVOLUTIO...	VIVA_LA_EVOLUTIO...	VIVA_LA_EVOLUTIO...

"Today is not my day" - or: The end of a long journey

Last year, I always WANTED to climb my project in Flirsch; - and sometimes I walked down a little bit depressed, after days with no power....my motivation was going down after bad tries.
Nine months later, something was different - I knew, that I was able to climb this boulder with my power – it was all in my mind.
On days with good friction and perfect conditions I thought I could climb it, but I wasn’t. - my brain was working too much, setting me under pressure.....

August 09/02

It was a cloudy day. Round midday I walked up to my project with my brother and some friends.
It started raining again and nobody thought about bouldering – maybe some training on the project, which doesn’t get wet.
After two really bad tries, I knew: today is not my day.
I thought it’s to humid and it would be better to go home and wait for better weather.
I started thinking about trying other sequences. Nearly 40 times I fell on that last hard move in the last weeks. Is it impossible ??? --- NO, it is possible, but not today......
For some reason, I started for another go.......
The first moves worked quite good, but moments later three fingers grabbed THE hold. I didn’t find the time for thinking and the last moves to the top i climbed like being in trance.
I knew I climbed something special; special for my mind and my body.
This problem is called VIVA LA EVOLUTION; my favority dj-mix from "madrid de los austrias" which was "with me" on the project since the first day.
It s my hardest boulderproblem to date; It took all my energy - but gives me a lot of "feelings" now. I never worked so hard for something, and the "journey" to the 9.august was the best trip I ever had ;-) i really learned a lot about me – understanding oneself ......

March 03/02

Gib dem Affen Zucker

...nachdem die letzten weeks klettermäßig nicht so gut waren, weiß selber
nicht genau wieso, war ich diese woche wieder unterwegs. am dienstag hab ich
dann wieder mein ultimo projektl probiert, und wieder gehen die einstiegszüge
mehr oder weniger easy-ich krieg den crux griff wieder und dann kommts darauf an
die füße die ganz überstreckt antreten, zu lösen und den "schawing"
abzufanegen. und diesmal fühlt es sich ganz gut an., aber wieder nix - so ne sch...,
hab mich wirklich gefragt ob ich das je klettern kann ???
ganz deprimiert hab ich dann eine andere lösungsmöglichkeit probiert, die
mir allerdings unmöglich ( zu der zeit - mit meinem power ) erschien. und siehe
da.....it works. glückshormone schießen durch meinen körper und ganz
zappelig lauf ich vor dem boulder umher. geil, es geht. Nur noch ne frage der Zeit ......
..next day. eigentlich wollt ich ja ruhetag machen, aber da das wetter ganz ok ist bin ich wieder unterwegs zum progetto.

einfach geil diese linie,
einer der schönsten Boulder, den ich je probiert hab, und evtl. mein schwerster.....

OK. Einstiegszüge gehen diesmal nicht so locker, aber irgendwie komm ich dann doch bei der crux an. Wie war das gestern nochmal??? ....und siehe da Crux fast hinter mich gebracht, falle aber bißchen weiter trotzdem raus.
Im Gegensatz zu gestern aber keine Resignation – überglücklich lieg ich auf der Matte....und weiss, ich kann es klettern. ABER ist es wirklich so schwer? Hat sich gar nicht so angefühlt. Egal, ich automatisiere noch einzelne Passagen, und ziemlich fertig, aber dafür HAPPY reise ich nach Hause. Samstags werde ich wiederkommen. Maybe this is the day ???...so schnell kanns gehen...
Freitag Abend treff ich mich noch in der Kletterhalle, um mir noch nen Partner zu suchen. Irgendwann hab ich dann auch noch kletterschuhe an und blödel ein bißchen herum.
....irgendwie kann ich dann einen 2 meter Doppeldynamo nicht halten und fliege durch die Luft, genauer gesagt 3,5 Meter runter und wie es der zufall so will, lande ich auf meinem knie...AUTSCH.
jetzt halt dich fest:

KNIESCHEIBE GEBROCHEN !!!!! beim bouldern, klingt doch echt bescheuert, oder ???

Feb 03/02

Coming back from first trip to Maltatal:

maltatal war echt der hammer - bügeleisen ist der wahnsinn. bitte hau das
video wieder rein....aber ich glaub ich muss den einstieg anders machen. für
klems variante bin ich zu kurz.....(zuwenig spannung ::))
...aber für meine variante bin ich noch zu schwach :).....aber ich werd dran
bleiben....)

Jan 27/02

Tessino update by "Z"

...after spending a lot of days in Tessino I thought it would be good to let know what happend so far. I also give you some corrections, because in the www you always find some "interessting” news. ( all this information is supplied without liability, but with best conscience) Dave G. and Michi and Ivan T. also did also some new first ascents. I will get the details….

CHIRONICO:
I always asked myself where the UNNAMED 8b+ and that UNNAMED 8b a lot of people had repeated the last years are. These Boulders are located about 300 metes before the main area. After passing a fountain at the right side, you walk down the medow on the left. There you find a big roof. The boulder on the left is called LA SOUCOUPE (8b/+) and the right problem is called ROSWELL (8b). ……start is deep in the roof, on the first holds, not in the middle...
After repeating both problems within one hour, I think they are easier. Dave also seems to thinks that.
If you walk from LA SOUCOUPE direction east, (to the mainarea) you will find a slightly overhangig wall with small crimpers. This sitstartproblem (two hard moves) is named DEEP RED 8a

CRESCIANO
During perfect boulderconditions over the last months some really cool problems have been estabilished.
One of the best lines in Tessino is Markus Bock's KIRK WINDSTEIN; felt like 8a+ to me…..really cool problem. Just to the right is EMPIRE STATE BUILDING 7c+ by Dave G.…a really scary boulderproblem. (take five crash pads and some really strong spotters) You find these problems after 10min walking form sector La grotte des soupirs to sector la boule; after passing the first small river.
SEKTOR LA BOULE :
I was able to make two first ascents there. UN ANGE AVEC DES CORNES, is just right of the famous LA PROUE (8b). This four move problem includes some interessting sloper moves and a cool topout. Behind the steep wall of Un ange avec des cornes and La Proue on the small hill, I opened XPLOSION; An obvious problem that was never tried before. A really cool traverse; crux is a long reach to a crimper. For taller people it will be easier. Both problems are in the same grade category, I think. …..more infos will follow.Sooo looong & have fun
"Z”

September 26/01

These 3 pictures (© Beat Kammerlander) are from a secret spot (well, not so secret anymore-see KLETTERN 10/2001), now known as magic wood: Here Bernd estabileshed some of his hardest boulderproblems.
MASSIV ATTACK fb.8b
SOFA SURFER fb. 8b(-)
SUPERNOVA fb.8ab
are the first hard problems he solved last winter, just 4 days before his dreamtime ascend in april, he climbed
UNENDLICHE GESCHICHTE fb. 8b(+).
in the next months he added
VOIGAS fb.8b,
HIGH SPIRIT fb. 8b(+)

Here you find a couple pictures of Bernd Zangerl bouldering in Lorüns and three shots of his ascent of DREAMTIME! All Fotos © B. Kammerlander. Stay tuned for more...

Bild_BK13.jpg	Bild_ki10.jpg	dreamtime_04.jpg	dreamtime_07.jpg	dreamtime_sw_2.jpg
ki4_jpg.jpg	ki_jpg.jpg	monalisa_jpg.jpg

Name: Bernd Zangerl
Residence: Flirsch, Austria
Height: 176m
Weight: 64kg
Climbs: as often as possible
Hardest redpoint: Tai chi, 8c, Lorüns
Hardest boulder:DREAMTIME
NEW BASE LINE, VIVA LA EVOLUTION

About Dreamtime:

Bernd began trying this problem just after Fred Nicole made the first ascent.
"When I saw this boulder for the first time it was clear to me: I want to climb this stunning line, and I didn’t try any other boulders in Tessino."
In January Bernd was close to climb the boulder, but…….
The crux have been the bad weather conditions this winter in the south Alps.
During a Dreamtime-break from mid February till April, Bernd climbed some other boulders like DIE UNENDLICHE GESCHICHTE. PART ONE, BLOODY KISSES and some others. After that he only wanted to go on vacation, but forced himself to try DREAMTIME again, despite warm temperatures.
Three days later on April 15, at 10pm, with support of two gas-lamps and Pusher Thomas "Steini” Steinbrugger the so far unknown student sent DREAMTIME, according to him the most beautiful line in Tessino.
Bernd wants to thank his spotter team: alex, thomas, didi, manu, floh, susi, ruth, birgitt……and all the other guys.
What will be next?