We have so many requests for a more in depth thing on training- its almost scary!

Do you guys go climbing sometimes too? Well, in the following we'll try to put the whole issue into perspective with an analyses of what can be trained and a brief introduction into the still mysterious SystemTraining (in our opinion the best method for climbing specific strength training). The videos are from Udo Neumann's upcoming DVD "Lizenz zum Klettern" with Andi Hofmann's original narration in german. If there is a strong interest, we might post a english version too. For a start we will try with a written english explanation.

Introduction

This is an introduction into pysical training for climbers. Andi boulders a 7c traverse in the Frankenjura and we stopped the video to analyse the physical aspects. As a reference we recommend reading Udos book "Lizenz zum Klettern 2.5 " (or "Performance Rock Climbing" for the english speakers) Please read the part about the central role of maximum strength in these books. In these 2 videos here we come to the conclusion that the physical aspects of climbing are so complex that you cannot simply train them with one isolated exercise (like campusboarding), but that you need to train ALL your muscles and their interaction in a climbing specific way.

Systemtraining basics

This leads us directly to Systemtraining in which you train your whole body. Here Andi talks about the right form by demonstrating a "bad" example. He is hanging only in his arms, whereas in Systemtraining you should always do every exercise as "easy" and in the best form as possible. That is very important!

Andi starts with a couple of exercises that are not stricktly Systemtraining but he finds still worth doing. Again he emphasizes on doing them in a non-jerky way, but still with a certain speed.

1. "Isolated" Exercises

This is as old as climbing itself. Just hanging on holds, variation comes from the size of the holds and the time and this again depends on the trasining period you are in.

Again, get yourself familiar with general training theory!

This is very interesting: Another way for variation and an excellent way to monitor your training progress. Andi is standing on a scale, trying to keep it stable at a certain weight. This is one thing Alexander Adler did before repeating Action Direct.

2. Systemtrainingexercises

Now we start with the real Systemtraining. In this case Andi is working 2 fingers/first digits in a medium frontal position. All these exercises can be modified according to your needs and weaknesses.

Later Andi is working 3 fingers combined with a different body position. You should always start with your weakest exercises. You see here how Andi is combining finger and whole body training during the lock-off exercise. How long he holds the position and how many reps he does depends on the period he is in.

Andi emphasizes that variation doesn't come from the size of the holds since he wants to work on a certain way of holding the holds. Variation comes from the angle of the wall and the size of the footholds.

Checking your posture is very important not only for SystemTraining, but for your climbing in general. First Andi demonstrates bad style, just pulling with your arms. Then he shows how to do it right- starting the movement with your pelvis and letting it run through your body in a wavelike motion. Look for this in the following "Gecko-lobs" exercises - Watch how nicely Andi initializes these gecko-lobs in his pelvis.

The "Peter Pan exercise" is a great example on how great Systemtraining is for your coordination. This exercise simulates cutting loose. Let go of the foothold, get small to reduce the swing and roll over the hip back onto the foothold. Highly recommended!

One of the strongest man alive, australian Garth Miller, shows signs of trouble during this lock-off exercise. Positioning his pelvis closer to the wall would mean for example a longer reach on really hard moves. It was impressive though, how quickly a really good climber picks up the SystemTraining exercises.

So, we are at the end of our brief introduction of strength training for climbers. If you have any questions, remarks or whatever, please direct them to our FORUM, instead of e-mailing somebody individually!

Deutschsprachige können sich hier noch den Grundlagen-Artikel von Andi durchlesen!