THE ORIGINAL LIST OF THE THE HARDEST CLIMBING MOVES

(est. 1998, read more here)

The list is constantly updated and "cleaned up". Please tell us if you think something is wrong. We try to have only the hardest moves on it and no myths, but we don't throw any thing out just based on speculation. Climb the route first, than tell us how hard you think it is! Also, only routes & boulders with mostly natural holds (reinforced might be okay) make it on the list - NO entirely chipped routes - if you know that one these Routes is chipped, please inform us!

 

1. Routes, rated 9a and harder or being opened by a climber who doesn't grade his/her routes, but thought this is hard...

 

NAME: LOCATION: FIRST CLIMBED BY:
REPEATED?
CONFIRMED? DATE:
COUP DE GRACE CH DAVE GRAHAM
0
 
2005
ERFOLG IST TRAINIERBAR AUSTRIA BERNI FIEDLER
0
 
2005
BIG HAMMER AUSTRIA CHRISTIAN BINDHAMMER
0
 
2005
DREAMCATCHER CANADA CHRIS SHARMA
0
 
2005
HEILIGER GRAHL GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
 
2005
KARACHI JAPAN YUJI HIRAYAMA
0
 
2005
MONGO AUSTRIA MARKUS BENDLER
0
 
2004
PSIKOTERAPIA SPAIN PATXI USIBIAGA
0
2004
VIOLENT NEW BREED UK JOHN GASKINS
0
2004
BIMBALUNGA CH FRANÇOIS NICOLE
JOSUNE BEREZIARTU (!)
9a(+)
2004
ESTADO CRITICO SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN
NICOLAS FAVRESSE
9a
2004
CHILAM BALAM SPAIN BERNABE FERNANDEZ
0
2003
UNPLUGGED GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
RICHARD SIMPSON
8c+/9a
2003
FLATMOUNTAIN JAPAN YUJI HIRAYAMA
0
2003
IL DOMANI SPAIN PATXI USIBIAGA
0
2003
LOGICAL PROGRESSION JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA
JOSUNE BEREZIARTU (!)
2003
INI AMERIKETAN SPAIN RIKAR OTEGUI
0
2003
LA CHIMÈRE DES HAUTEURS CH FRED NICOLE
0
2003
LA RAMBLA ext. SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN
0
2003
FLEX LUTHOR USA TOMMY CALDWELL
0
2003
REALIZATION FRANCE CHRIS SHARMA
2
9a
2001
ROBI IN THE SKY FRANCE FRANÇOIS LEGRAND
0
2000
IM REICH DES SHOGUN CH ERIC TALMADGE
0
2000
NORTHERN LIGHTS UK STEVE McCLURE
0
2000
UNDERGROUND ITALY YUJI HIRAYAMA
1
9a
2000
THE FLY USA DAVE GRAHAM
4, JASON KEHL solo 2003
8b/+ bloc
2000
VAKUUMGEIST AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
THOMAS KATZLBERGER
9a
1998
MUTATION UK STEVE McCLURE
0
1998
INTERMEZZO AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
T. KATZLBERGER
9a
1997
BIG BANG UK NEIL CARSON
0
1997
OPEN AIR AUSTRIA ALEXANDER HUBER
0
1996
AKIRA FRANCE FRED ROUHLING
0
Status dubious...
1995
BAIN DE SANG CH FRED NICOLE
7
9a
1993
ACTION DIRECTE GERMANY WOLFGANG GÜLLICH
8
9a
1991

 

2. Boulder (bloc), rated either 8b+ and harder or being opened by a climber who doesn't grade his/her problems, but thought this is hard...

 

NAME: LOCATION: FIRST CLIMBED BY:
REPEATED?
CONFIRMED?
DATE:
TERRMER USA FRED NICOLE
0
 
2006
FORGET ABOUT LIFE FOR A WHILE GERMANY FABIAN CHRISTOPH
0
 
2005
PI GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT
0
 
2005
LIBRE AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
0
 
2005
AMANDLA SA FRED NICOLE
0
 
2005
MEMENTO CH BERND ZANGERL
0
 
2005
RAY OF LIGHT SA KLEM LOSKOT
0
 
2005
SATAN Y HELVÈTE FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT
0
 
2005
UMA JAPAN DAI KOMAYADA
0
 
2005
CENTER TRIFECTA NZ CHRIS SHARMA
0
 
2005
WITNESS THE FITNESS USA CHRIS SHARMA
0
 
2005
FROM DIRT GROWS THE FLOWERS CH DAVE GRAHAM
0
 
2005
ENTLINGE CH FRED NICOLE
0
 
2005
MONTECORE GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
 
2005
THE STORY OF TWO WORLDS CH DAVE GRAHAM
0
 
2005
COLLATERAL CH DAVE GRAHAM
CHIPPED! Now 8a+...
 
2004
AVERSTAL PROBLEM CH CHRIS SHARMA
0
 
2004

FLAMIGNON

USA CHRIS SHARMA
0
 
2004
THE RIVERBED CH DAVE GRAHAM
0
 
2004
BEGINNING OF THE END SLOVENIA URH CEHOVIN
0
 
2004
IT'S OVER UK SI O'CONNOR
0
Status dubious...
2004
TRACE ELEMENT UK SI O'CONNOR
0
Status dubious...
2004
PILGRIMAGE UK MALCOM SMITH
0
 
2004
THE WHEEL OF LIFE AUSTRALIA DAI KOMAYADA
0
2004
SLEEPY RAVE AUSTRALIA DAI KOMAYADA
0
2004
V2A GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
 
2004
BLACK BALL GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
ANDRÉ BEHR
8b+
2004
ALPHA MAN GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
 
2004
I TALK TO PLANETS GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
 
2004
TONINO '78 ITALY MAURO CALIBANI
JULIAN NADIRAS
2004
CANNIBAL CORPSE GERMANY PASCAL SCHOUWINK
JULIUS WESTPHAL
8b+
2004
MARLA SINGER GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT
0
2004
ZUNAMI AUSTRIA B. SCHWAIGER
H. SCHWAIGER
8c
2003
RIOT ACT GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
0
2003
PHAETON GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
2
8b/+
2003
THE MONK LIFE UK MALCOM SMITH
0
2003
L'ANARCHISTE FRANCE PHILIP MOSER
FRED TUSCAN
2003
TRIP HOP FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT
0
2003
UBIK assis FRANCE JULIEN NADIRAS
DAVE GRAHAM
8b+
2003
THE BOOK OF BITTER ASPECTS USA DAVE GRAHAM
0
2003
SORGINETXE SPAIN IKER POU
0
2003
THE DAGGER CH TONI LAMPRECHT

2

8b+
2003
MONKEY WEDDING SA FRED NICOLE
0
2003
OLIPHANTS DAWN SA FRED NICOLE
0
2003
DIE UNENDLICHE GESCHICHTE /PART 1+2 CH CHRIS SHARMA
JULIUS WESTPHAL
8b+
2003
MADIBA SA FRED NICOLE
0
2003
EMOTIONAL LANDSCAPES AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
1
2002
NEW BASE LINE CH BERND ZANGERL
2
8c
2002
VIVA LA EVOLUTION AUSTRIA BERND ZANGERL
0
2002
GOSSIP GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
JOHN GASKINS ?
?
2002
SILENT HUNTER AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
THOMAS SCHIFER
8b
2002
LILI GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT
0
2002
CHAOS FRANCE JULIEN NADIRAS
2
8b/+
2002
THE GANYMEDE TAKEOVER USA DAVE GRAHAM
0
2002
BÜGELEISEN AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
M. BOCK
8b+
2001
KAIZEN UK JOHN GASKINS
0
2001
CIRCADIAN RHYTHM USA DAVE GRAHAM
0
2001
ESPERANZA USA FRED NICOLE
CHRIS SHARMA
2001
DUNE FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT
0
2001
EVE REVE AUSTRALIA FRED NICOLE
0
2000
BRAD PIT (SIT DOWN) UK THOMAS WILLENBERG
?
2000
NOTHING BUT SUNSHINE USA DAVE GRAHAM
LUKE PARADY
2000
DREAMTIME CH FRED NICOLE
7
Destroyed!
2000
MUERTE GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT
0
1999
WRESTLING WITH AN ALLIGATOR AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT
M. BOCK
8b
1999
AMMAGAMMA AUSTRALIA KLEM LOSKOT
3
8b
1999
CAVERAVE AUSTRALIA KLEM LOSKOT
3
8b+
1999
FATMAN FRANCE FRED NICOLE
2
1999
LE COEUR DE LEON USA FRED NICOLE
0
1998
SLASHFACE USA FRED NICOLE
3
8b+
1998
NANUK GERMANY KLEM LOSKOT
0
1997
ZERBERUS GERMANY WERNER THON
2
8b/+
1997

 

"Do we comprehend as a community a system of grading? As a community, are we confident in our current theories about the complex abstraction of high-end grades?

I think the media did a lot more consolidating of grades than we ever did as a community of climbers. For generations it has happened. Capitalism, money, "fame",...these factors of our world are real, and they have a serious influence.

Grades will never be the most inspiring abstraction donated by climbing. They rank low in overall importance. From an artistic point of view, the possible inspiration one can attain from a grade (it being an after-the-fact interpretation of something special) can never compete with the inspiration donated by the actual experience of climbing.

I changed a lot of my ideas about grades throughout my experiences climbing. I learned a lot about how to compare personal experiences and deduce their relativity. I think its amazing, as a community, how everyone involved, can appreciate the attempt to articulate (with a little number) how challenging something felt, or how one experience compared to another."

--- Dave Graham, 2004 ---

 

©2005 by Udo Neumann