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Now in English-Austrian-German:
WELT DER SCHWERELOSIGKEIT - KLEM LOSKOT berichtet aus seinem
aufregenden Leben.
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What I did during the
winter of 2000/2001:
Finally
I left Austria, with my friends Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr
and Werner "Gamsi" Gamsjäger. We started our trip
to Spain. In Tessin/Swizzerland we stopped by to have not such a
long driving.
TESSIN
Es ist Anfang Dezember. Gamsi, Mungo und ich brechen Richtung Süden
auf. Obwohl das Wetter bei uns zu Hause schon den ganzen Herbst
sehr trocken und untypisch warm ist, zieht es uns weg. Zu Hause
ist man ja eh das ganze Jahr. Nach einer Stunde telephonieren mit
Austro Control - dem Österreichischen Wetterdienst - stellt
sich heraus, daß das Wetter überall schlecht ist, außer
bei uns zu Hause und daran wird sich auch in der nächsten Woche
nichts ändern.. Trotzdem sitzen wir bald in Mungos Werkspassat
und heitzen über die Autobahn. Stetig wird es feuchter. Nach
einer Regennacht schwirren wir in den Kastanienwäldern herum.
Eines wird bald klar. Es liegen hier mehr Blöcke herum als
es uns fair erscheint. Für hier sind es eh zu viele, und bei
uns täte eine kleine Auffrischung nicht schlecht. Nach zwei
Tagen ziehen wir weiter Richtung Italien. One day in Chironico:
KANTE SD 7c+ bloc second go,
EINE KLEINE 7c+ bloc second go,
RAIN
DOGS 8a bloc second go,
DACH 7c bloc flash,
TARZAN
7c bloc flash,
LES
DOIGTS VERTS 8a/8a+ bloc flash, my friend Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr
also sent it
LE
PILIER 8a bloc flash.
The next place we went to Targasonne in the Phyrenées. It
is an place with an very beautiful landscape. We where lucky because
we met Phil Gondoux, a very nice guy and the local from the Chaos
de Targasonne, which is full of granit boulders. The place is huge
and for sure many more porblems could be opened. It is just a question
of exploring.
first day:
THANATODROME 8a traversée flash
TOMBEAU DE DAME 8a bloc flash Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr
also flashed it (seems to be easier the 8a bloc)
VIOLENT SNACKY 7b+ bloc flash
FLAGELLUM DAEMORIUM 7c bloc flash
AGATHE THE POISON 7b+ bloc flash
UNIFORMICIDE 8a bloc second try
second day:
To Thanatodrome 8a traversée I added a logic sitstart, 2
moves like 8a bloc. Ialready tried it on the first day, but I was
way too tired doing it. I named it QUEEN
OF HEARTS - I'M NOT THE KING, I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING AND SOMETIMES
IT IS HARD TO FIND A REASON TO LIFE.
second repetition of PSOASS-MOLE
8b bloc. Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr did the second asscent,
for him it felt a bit easier then 8b bloc, I think it depends of
the spann in the arms.
to Uniformicide 8a bloc I aded a 7c+ bloc jump at the end. I named
it GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM. It seems to be hard.
COBALT 60 7c bloc flash
LORDS OF ACID 7b+ bloc flash.
First asscents of BADEMEISTER, a long and pumpy traverse and BADESCHLUSS,
a very interesting dyno.
We saw some articles about an awesome looking bouldering area near
Madrid, El Escorial. It is a montain full of granit boulders and
just a little part has been developed. Too bad that we just had
3 days of bouldering there, because there would have been soo much
more to explore. The list:
SALTO AL VACIO 7b flash
MONSTRUODE LAS REGLETAS Is the hardest problem in the forest of
El Escorial. It was a project many people tried before. I did the
first asscent in a couple of tries.
FEELING THE WIND 7c+ bloc
ANTICRISTO SUPERSTAR 7c+ bloc flash
BOURBON STREET 7c+ bloc second try
KIKE YEL ESPACIO-TIEMPO 7c+/8a bloc second try
KATAPULT 8a bloc couple of tries
MEGAPUERTA 8a bloc second go
KOMPRESSOR 7c bloc flash
LA BALLENA 8a+ bloc second asscent.
Very near to Madrid there are so many other mountains with shitloads
of granit boulders. For example La Pedriza. It is not called The
Joshua Tree of Europe for nothing. It is a very very big area to
explore. One rest day was enought to have an awesome bouldering
day out there. The boulders are very cristallic, sharp and at the
beginning a bit sandy when you are the first who takes hand on rock
. The boulders are very blank, so you nearly need 10 boulders to
find one line on it. This makes the boulderproblems, the lines,
very unique, because when you find a line which is possible it is
outstanding. With our friends from Madrid, Hector del Campo, Ivan
and Daviz, we spent an awesome day out there. The hard and nice
lines are (between 7b+ and 8a bloc):
SHOW ME THE WAY TO YOUR HEART first asscent
ELLIOT first asscent
YELLOW UMBRELLA first asscent
KLAUSTROFOBIC first asscent
SUPERBEAUTIFUL first asscent
In Catalunia is the area Siurana, what is famous for the sportclimbs
it has. We stayed at Toni Arbonés campground, a guy with
even an funnier way to talk english and always finding uniqu expressions.
After a week very bad weather, it rained nearly the hole day, we
could start bouldering again. For sure, nearly everything what we
went on, we had to explore before. Siurana for bouldering is not
what it is for ropeclimbing , that's a fact. It is a small place
with mostly hard problems but what is there is not often to find.
There are a lot of balcons, with a very nice view, steep stone-waves
( the typical style is a roof what starts almost vertical and gets
steeper ans steeper the higher it gets) and also some hard and interesting
boulderproblems. I'm sure it is possible to explore many more roofs.
The problems we did 7b+ bloc and harder:
COMOCARNAGE 7b+ bloc flash Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr also
flash
DANIS PROBLEM 7c+ bloc second try Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr
also did it
SHOULDER BOULDER 7c bloc second try Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr
flash
ENTERADORR 8a bloc second try (first ascent after starthold brocke)
PEOPLE ARE CRACY! flash first asscent
I GET MY KICKS ON PLANET SIX first asscent (one move wonder - hard
and very technical move, one of the hardest moves i did in Spain)
WAHNSINN IN ORANGE first asscent second try (a small horizontal
roof with cracy moces on slopers)
AY MAMA QUE PASO first asscent second try
TANZBÄR first asscent (starts with two hard "full-body-needs-moves"
on slopy grimps and a balance climb section at the end, very interesting
and hard)
WITHE BUNCH flash first asscent
LATTE flash first asscent
MARATHON MAN first asscent
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